Monday, July 26, 2010
RECOVERY TRUCKS AND MOT EXEMPTION
Unblocking a Drain
As we stock a wide range of drain tools one of the questions we are
constantly being asked is 'what should we buy to help with a blocked
drain'.
Click the link to see our range of Drain Tools Bamford Trading Drain Tools
This guide has been written with that question in mind!
Lets assume you would like to fix this unpleasant problem at the lowest cost?
First thing is to understand the nature of the blockage. Many blockages are local to the sink or drain where you discovered it.
Sinks, Baths, Showers and Basins
The most usual problem with sinks is caused by a build up of hair or grease. If other sinks locally are still working fine then this is almost certainly your problem (you lucky thing). If the water is draining slowly you may be lucky and get away with pouring very hot water down the plug. Be careful if you do this. Chemical solutions may also work for this kind of blockage.
If this does not work or the water is not moving you can try a plunger or a blaster which force water down the drain and should take the blockage with it or a wire which can find its way around the u bend.
If these solutions do not work you will have to resort to a plumber or to disassembly of the U bend if you can get to it. Don't forget to have a bucket handy!
When you have fixed the blockage be sure to rinse the sink with hot water to clear any remaining grease.
Toilets
Joy. A blocked toilet can be the source of real problems not least health problems and needs to be dealt with quickly. Fortunately they are normally quite easy to clear.
Do you know what caused the blockage? If it was a 'soft' item you may be lucky and get away with a 'Wire Spring'' type unblocker - these are flexible and can go around the bend and are often successful.
Plungers may also work if the blockage is a soft one.
If its a hard blockage close to the toilet its a job for a plumber I'm afraid - you don't want to push it further down the pipe. A plumber will remove the toilet and gain access to the drain.
Outside Drains and Gulleys
Often a blockage affecting the kitchen only will be causd by a blocked gulley. An outside drain normally around 4" square. Simple but dirty job in most cases. Use gloves and get your hand in there - you will find the gulley blocked with soap or dirt. If water is moving slowly pour lots of hot water down first. A hose pipe with a jet attachment may help clear it too.
If more than one sink or toilet is affected especially if the blockage
is house wide then the problem is most likely to be in the drain
outside the house. If more than one house is affected it will be a
problem in the sewer and the water authority should be involved.
Drain problems usually manifest themselves by a full man hole. There are drain cover keys at Bamford Trading Drain Tools In this case its likely you will need drain rods. The rods should be used to push the blockage down the drain using the rubber plunger. Remember to always turn the rods clockwise.
We are happy to answer your questions - please see the 'ask seller a question' link on any listing.
We hope this has helped save you worry and money - if it has please vote.
How to spot fake or repro german helmets fake decals
After Reading please check ''about me'' page
This review is a basic guide on how to spot replica helmets
How do you know if your helmets paint is original?
first clue is the smell test don't be afraid to get up close and smell the helmet obvious signs of artificially ageing is chemical smells or a strong smell of paint sometimes you might not be able to smell the paint always try this at room temperature.
Next clue to you having a repaint is if your helmet is perfect on the outside but heavily rusty on the inside the wear should be the same on the inside as well as the outside this is another obvious point that it is a fake repaint.
The reproducer also trys and atificially wear the helmet to give it the battle scarred look to spot this look for patterns like constant scratching with the same tool the reproducer will use the same technique so compare with the sellers other helmets and see if there are similarities. The usual tools they use for ageing is sand paper so look for scratching to the paint they also use wire wool to wear of the paint on the rim of the helmet and they also whip the top of the helmets with chains ropes to take off paint and make it look like it has been through a war. Also they burn the helmets paint leaving it looking old but this bubbles the paint and can be seen this can be found on originals but with repros also the bubbled paint will be able to sctratch of and it will be more exaggerated.
camo paint is the hardest to decide wether its original or not it is very hard as they vary because it was the soldier who decided how he wanted his helmet to look the most common and easiest to fake is the snow camo helmet and is very hard to tell if it is original or not basically the white should not be bright white it would have discolored with age making it look more cream/yellow in colour also look for wear on the rim and crown and smell the paint to see if it smells.
all camo's are different and should not be all the same but they should have a "dead look" to them this means that it looks dull, fake look bright in colour and freshly painted.
another is a little scratch test if it has been painten recently with a finger it should scratch off with ease, on originals paint will not scratch of only exeptions with relic helmets.
you can see original camos with all sorts on them ranging from concrete to wood chip mixed with paint even sand so not every camo is the same.
also fakers like to paint names on the rim of the helmets or even paint names or towns on the outside of the helmet to make it look like a captured vet bring back.
the painted names are usually painted with white and the white should be discolored and not bright it should look off in colour if it isn't you will have a fake.
How can i tell if the wear is original?
The fakers also like to do rust spots to give it that real aged look to it, with fake reproduced rust usually sits on the top of the paint like a coating and looks like red in colour this with a hand is easily wiped off why? because they buried the helmet underground for about 2 to 3 months dig it back up and it gathers a little rust coating but the rust hasn't had the time to bond with the helmet and stick to the helmet because it hasn't had time. were as real wear has had over 60 years to bond to the helmet and the rust that bleeds through the helmet will usually come from underneath the paint and will not be bright red in colour but it will be brown in colour. On originals the main wear patterns on nearly every german helmet is on the top crown of the helmet and the rim of the helmet.
Note though if the helmet is a relic or if it has been left in damp or a shed it can start to re-rust over showing red rust this happens because the helmet either hasnt been treated or it has been exposed to damp
Fake liners and chin straps
There is one main thing to do smell the liner if it smells of fresh leather or chemicals you definitely have a repro liner, originals always have that old smell to it.
also burning is another way to brown and age the liners so if it smells burnt you probably have a fake.
another one it boot polish this darkens the liner making it look old so just give it a good smell.
Liner bands should always be maker marked and all should be dated and all should have the size, there are different types of liner bands steel aluminum and reinforced aluminum liner band, another point never take your liner out to check the maker mark chances are you will not get it back in again and this seriously devalues your helmet.!
fake chinstraps also has the new leather smell to it and nearly all fake chinstraps are marked Larsen and dated 1938 so watch out as the seller will add these to bump the value of the helmet right up because chinstraps alone are worth 100
if you want to take a chance make sure the seller gives a money back guarantee on the item also don't be afraid to ask around get other peoples opinions before buying join a forum dicussion board were theres lots of other experienced collectors and dealers to answer your question remember its your money your parting with,
if you have no experience do alot of reasearch before buying because the fakes are getting better and easier to fake handle as many originals as you can before you buy don't jump in feet first buy the cheapest and work your way up.
Also please let me know if you have any militaria to sell as i am always looking for new items to add to my collection
Excessive Postage and Packing? My Guide!
COLLECTORS
Glass fusing Kilns - How to buy the right one!
One of the most common questions asked buy people taking their first steps into buying a glass fusing kiln is 'Can I fuse glass in a pottery kiln?' Well the simple answer to that is yes. However. Ceramic kilns are specifically made to hold much larger items than the glass kiln will usually cater for so using a ceramic kiln might prove extremely inefficient if you're intending to use it to fire smaller items like jewellery.
The first issue to look at for glass fusing kilns is size! Can you fit it in the home...can you even get it through the front door? Make sure you read the specs to check the outer dimensions and make sure to add on about 6-12 inches around it when it's set up as it'll get hot!
Check the size of the firing chamber.Smaller kilns, such as the Paragon SC2 are perfect for smaller items such as glass jewellery but are too small for larger items such asplates and candle archesfor example. The larger the kiln, the larger the power supply needed to run it. UK domestic power sockets can run upto about 13 amps so smaller to medium sized kilns such as the hotstart pro can be plugged directly into the wall. Larger kilns run from 30amps or more of power so require a breaker to be fitted by a qualified electrician to your fuse box. A line is then fed to the position of the kiln and a 'cooker type' switch is fitted with the lead for the kiln running directly to the switch. In order to qualify for insurance the work should be certified (check with your insurance provider about coverage).Small to medium kilns will run an average firing for between 14p- 50p each with larger kiln averaging 1 plus per firing. Always ask the retailer for average running costs- they should already know them so you don't get a shock when you get your next power bill!The next issue to look at when buying glass kilns is how the kiln opens and where the heating elements are. This is very important as some kilns will allow you to work inside the kiln when it's on, some won't and this is largely dependant on the position of the heating elements within the kiln.
Kilns are usually divided into two kinds- top loading or front opening.If you want to be able to work inside the kiln when it's on- for example to make glass bracelets on a mandrel, you need a top loading kiln (such as a firebox) so you can get access. You must however make sure the heating elements aren't located in the lid of the kiln (for example hotstart pro) otherwise it's going to be very hazardous!There are positives and negative to the positioning of the heating elements and everyone has differnet view depending on how they work but generally-Heating elements located at the top of the kiln- provide more even heat and reduce the need for second firings. Some kiln work might be difficult though.Heating elements located at the back of the kiln- will heat slightly unevenly so items placed nearer the element will have a more rounded appearance. This can be a bonus though, allowing you to produce several types of item in one firing. Some warm glass work, ie bracelet forming can be tricky though due to the uneven heating.Heating elements located around the sides of the kiln- will generally heat evenly (usually with a slightly colder spot in the centre) and are great for warm glass kiln work.Important things to look out for!Does the kiln have a pyrometer?- Essential to monitor the temps in the kiln.Does the kiln have a controller?- Not completely necessary for smaller kilns although strongly recommended as it'll enable you to program firing scheduals to suit as well as learn how to use the kiln effectivelyHow much do it cost to run? Ask and average cost per firing.How large is the firing chamber?- You may be better off in the long run getting a larger kiln which can produce the same amount in one firing as a smaller kiln can in 5 firings. What are the outer dimensions of the kiln? Will it fit!...Remember to allow approximately 6-12 inches around the kiln as they do get hot (duh).What's the power req? Upto 13 amps is fine for domestic UK supply...more than 13 then consult an electrician.
Other than that, check the sellers credentials-make sure the kilns comes with a guarantee incase of faults and that you can ask questions about the kiln when you get it home.
ps3 60gb warning for buyers ,things you can do
FURTHER TO MY GETTING CONNED OUT OF 410.50,I HAVE NOW DISCOVERED LOADS OF PEOPLE SCAMMING THESE PS3 60GB IT IS REALLY FRIGHTENING AS I KNOW IT WONT JUST BE HAPPENING ON THIS ITEM ,WHAT IVE LEARNT IS
1,THEY HAVE 0 OR LITLE FEEDBACK AND ARE RECENTLY NEWMEMBERS,
2THEY USUALLY LIST THE ITEM OVER SHORT PERIODS OF TIME,
3THEY ALSO LIST SOMETIMES OTHER ITEMS TO MAKE THEMSELVES LOOK GENUINE ,
4,THEY WILL NOT ALLOWCASHON COLLECTION,OR COLLECTION IN PERSON AT ALL
5,THEY COME UP WITH THE EXSCUSE YOU CANT COLLECT BECAUSE I WAS BURGLED ,BUT THEY ARE NEW MEMBERS WHO HAVE NOT SOLD ANYTHING YET,
6,THEY EMPHASISE THINGS LIKE ,THEY HAVE BEEN CONNED ,WELL IM SORRY BUT I PAID BY PAYPAL AND WAS CONNED ,AND NOW HAVE TO WAIT 10 DAYS TO SEE IF THERE IS ANYCHANCE OF GETTING MY MONEY BACK,
7 THEY HAVE NOW COME UP WITH IF YOU WANT TO KNOW MORE RING ME ,WELL 02 GIVE MOBILE CHIPS AWAY FOR NOTHING AS DO A LOT OF MOBILE COMPANIES,ITS EXACTLY THE SAME AS TYPING YOU DONT KNOW WHO YOU ARE SPEAKING WITH,
8,THEY ALSO MAKE IT LOOK GENUINE BY SAYING UK BIDDERS ONLY,THEY ARE GETTING BETTER AND BETTER AT MAKING THE ITEM AND ADVERT LOOK GENUINE ,
9,IF YOU LOOK AT ALL THESE POINTS AND YOU BEAR THEM ALL IN MIND WHEN BUYING YOU ARE PROTECTING YOURSELF EVEN MORE,
10, I DONT BELIEVE THIS IVE JUST SEEN ONE ADVERTISED FREE POSTAGE BUT THIS IS A CON AND I WILL REPORT TO E BAY AS THEY HAVE NOT RESPONDED TO MY EMAIL ASKING IF I CAN COLLECT ,SO NUMBER 11
11, FREE POSTAGE OR VERY LITTLE POSTAGE FOR ITEM,2ND CLASS RECORDED (CONVENIENT YOU PAY, THEY SAY HAS BEEN POSTED,CAN TAKE 7/14 DAYS ,BY WHICH TIME THEYVE GONE WITH YOUR MONEY)
I HOPE THIS SAVES JUST 1 PERSON FROM MAKING THE MISTAKE I MADE AND IT WILL HAVE BEEN WORTHWHILE,WRITING THIS REVIEW ,BEST WISHES SHELLIEX,JUST FOUND ANOTHER CHINK IN THERE ARMOUR TO GO ALONG WITH THE REST,
12 THEY USUALLY KEEP THE EBAYERS WHO IS BIDDING NOT ALL THE TIME BUT ON A LOT OF OCCASIONS HIDDEN,
Ford Capri Mk3 : 3.0S, 2.8 Injection, 280 Brooklands
This is one of many illustrated classic car guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic FordCapri Mk3 carart featured in this guide please click here.
The third-generation Capri which arrived in March 1978 was mechanically similar to equivalent Capri 2s, but used a revised body with new grille, bumpers and front valance incorporating airdam, together with four headlamps and extended bonnet leading edge. The UK range at launch was as follows: 1300L/GL, 1600L/GL, 1600S, 2.0GL, S or ghia and 3.0S or Ghia.
Capri 3000S 1978-1981
The third-generation Capris were introduced at the Geneva Show in March 1978, allegedly with 150 revisions, but in practice little different from their predecessors. The new extended bonnet gave the headlamps a sort of eyebrow effect. The S models ran on Ghia wheels but gained a soft plastic rear spoiler and prominent S side striping. Desirable extras from the options list were Recaro seats (75.84), headlamp washers (56.14) and a high quality steel sunroof (146).
Capri 2.8 Injection 1981-1984
Ford created a sensation with the Capri2.8i - the first UK-market version to use the Cologne V6 engine, the first to have fuel injection (160bhp), and the first to have its chassis redeveloped by Rod Mansfield's SVE department. Priced originally at 7995, it was an immediate success, with a genuine 129mph and 0-60 in a sizzling 7.9s. This became the definitive sporting Capri, and by the time the final 280 version had been sold in 1987, over 25,000 had been produced.
Capri Zakspeed Turbo 1981-1982
From July 1981 the German market took another step forward with the launch of the Zakspeed-engineered Capri Turbo. It was a strange mixture of 2.8-litre carburettor-fed Granada engine with a KKK turbocharger, 2.8 injection running gear and X-Pack body panels, and was clearly designed to cash in on the success of the fabulous Zakspeed racers. Only around 200 were built and officially it was only ever available in Germany, through RS dealerships.
Capri 2.8T Tickford 1983-1986
Ford backed limited production of what probably rates as the most dramatic of converted Capris, the 2.8T Tickford. A conversion based on the 2.8i, but with a 205bhp turbocharged 2.8-litre engine, the model was easily recognised by its extrovert body kit, which included spoilers and side skirts, together with its distinctive blanked-off front grille. Tickford reckoned on producing around 250-400 cars, but with prices starting at 14,985 it was hardly surprising that only 83 cars entered production, the last in 1987.
Capri 2.8 Injection Special 1984-1986
In October 1984 the Capri range was rationalised to just 2 models, the limited edition Laser and the Injection Special. The Capri 2.8 Injection Special was launched to coincide with the London Motor Show, its main features over and above the standard 2.8i being leather trim, spoked RS wheels, rear seat belts and a limited-slip differential. Minor colour coding was also applied - the grille, the bonnet lip extension and the headlamp bezels now finished in body colour, although the rear spoilers and mirrors remained matt black.
Capri 280 Brooklands 1986
A final run of 2.8-litre injected models badged as the Capri 280, were introduced in March 1987. Painted in Brooklands dark green, with red and white coachlines, they were tastefully trimmed in leather and fitted with 7J X 15-in alloy wheels. Costing 11,999 each, just 1,038 280s were built making them instant classics. It represented a dignified end for Ford's sport coupe, which had seen continuous production for the 18 years from November 1968 until December 1986 and notched up a total of nearly 1.9 million copies.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Girls Pink Gingham Dresses - School Uniform
As parents we need school uniform that is washable, needs little or no ironing, will put up with lots of playground games and still look good....and all at a budget price.
For "basic" colours, Asda and Tesco have an extensive range in August, and then cut backdramatically to skirts, trousers and jumpers in September. If these shops do the colours that you need, then I would suggest buying extras in August, or better still waiting until September and buying the next size up in the sales.
If like me your daughter attends a school with a less popular (but I think prettier) colour, then finding the uniform can be a nightmare. Our school has grey skirts and trousers, which is easy, but has pink gingham dresses for the girls summer uniform.
Whilst I think this colour is lovely, buying early is essential as I only found Marks
misleading and bogus ebayers!!!!
Adidas fakes being sold as original
I can't understand how people can sell fakes on Ebay.
Adidas Tygun boots which can only be broughtat atradeprice of 20.00 fromAdidas or Adidasapproved agents.(Original Boots)
Ebay has seen over these past months Tygun boxing boots beingsold at 10.00, 14.00 which are cheap fakes being sold as originalcoming from Countries Such as Greece
Avoid Bad Sellers
There are sellers on Ebay using more than one name but all trading separately. Their feedback says it all. They receive money but send out items which are either incomplete or damaged. They then promise to send the correct / missing items but never do.
They also seem to 'forget' to send packages out then refuse to acknowledge receipt of your emails and just refuse to contact you. They also do not send refunds unless it is forced by Paypal.
Lastly, and not leastly, the contact numbers registered on Ebay are incorrect for actually being able to make contact.
The names in question are NEXGEN7, JILLS INTERNET SHOP, BIBZEDS.
I personally complained to Ebay but no further action was taken.
How do they get away with this - you are asking?The answer is simple. They have been trading for a long time and have built up a very high feedback score. It therefore takes a large number of complaints before anything can be done about sellers like this.
My personal recommendation to any prospective buyer is STAY AWAY. It is not worth the hasle.
I hope this helps you.
The use of Web Page creators for eBay auctions!
Take it from me, using Word, Frontpage, Dreamweaver etc to generate HTML for an ebay auction is not a good idea !
Why, because they create complete web pages, and an eBay auction is already a complete web page, you are just adding to it (in the description box).
For starters you will only need the HTML between the
marco sky l tandem double buggy
Sellers can no longer give buyers negative feedback
Air Crew Europe Star How To Spot a Reproduction
Please click "About Me" page to find out what i am currently collecting maybe you have something that may interest me ?
This is a review on how to stop getting ripped off with fake reproduction air crew europe stars below i will point a number of things to look out for.
Right number 1 is on nearly every fake repro air crew europe star if look at the end of the "W" (bottom right corner) on "crew" it should match exactly with the line underneath it.
2. no breaks to the VI
3. The points on copies are usually rounded and blunt.
4. The pebbling in the back ground should stand out and not be flat or faded.
5.The bottom point of the V on VI should match exactly to the W (crew) on top lst left point.
6. The "GRI" should be sharp and should stand out and The G should not blend in with the outer circle there should be a space.
7. If you look at the letter "A" in air and the ending letter "E" of Europe if you put a ruller across they should be in line with each other and match.
8.With the letters The Air Crew Europe Star on origianls the letters look squared of with copy's they look more round and more flat and less detailed.
9. If you look at the centre of the crown were the pips are count them on originals there should be 4 1/2 pips the last one being the 1/2 a pip with copy's they are 5 full pips also look at detail with the crown it should be sharp not flat andpoints should not be round.
10. Air crew europe stars were never issued with the soldiers name and rank on them.
11. The rings that hold the ribbon are usually brass
below you can compare the original with the reproduction.
Above is original
Above is a copy
Shore Fishing Rigs, A Beginners Guide - Sea Tackle
This is a guide to making shore fishing rigs, I will cover a few of the basics of rig making and then I will show a few of the most popular rigs used in the UK.
There are a few very common mistakes made by newcomers to sea fishing and hopefully after reading this guide anyone will be able to avoid them! There is also some suggestions when buying componants to make your own rigs.
I have been shore fishing for 25 years, have won many competitions and have represented England a few times, I mainly fish matchs, but also enjoy targeting Bass and Cod, I feel I have a very sound knowledge of all aspects of sea fishing and hope I can pass on some tips to any keen angler.
The Basics
You need to use the right rig for the typeof fishing you are doing, if you are targeting small fish its no use using a 4/0 hook, and likewise if you aretargeting big fish then you usually want a big hook and usually a big bait. The rig must also be suited to the range you need to acheive to catch fish, you will catch more with 1 hook amougst the fish, than with 3 hooks not reaching the fish.
Whatever type of rig you use, its essential that the dimensions are right to avoid tangles. Good Bait presentation is very important, this will never be achieved with a tangled rig. Simply making rigs with hooks that cannot tangle with each other will increase your catch.
SAFETY - You need to use rigs that are safe for you and those around you, Always use a minimum of 10lb breaking strain per ounce of weight you use, for the rig body, so if you use a 5oz lead, the rig body must be a minimum of 50lb breaking strain. Remember a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, so having50lb line is no use if youonly have a 20lb swivel tiedto it,you must ensure that all parts of the rig that will be put under pressure during casting are strong enough to deal with the forces casting excerts onthem.
Hooks - Possibly the most important componant of any rig, the hook needs to be sharp to hook the fish and strong to land the fish, I never use a hook for more than one session, they cost very little and blunt easily, replacing hooks is as simple as tying a knot.
A good selection of rigs is essential, you ideally want a wallet full of rigs in your tackle box at all times, the best place to tie rigs is at home, tying rigs on the beach is not ideal, the beach is for fishing, all the time you are tying rigs you are not concentrating on fishing. Spend a couple of hours at home before you go fishing and tie a selection of rigs and enjoy your fishing a lot more.
The Flapper Rig
Easily the most popular rig in the UK, the flapper can be made with 1,2 or 3 hooks, the choice of which depends on the type of fishing you are planning, as a rough guide 1 hook is ideal for big baits for bass or cod etc whilst the 2 and 3 hook is more suited to general beach fishing for smaller fish. Virtually all match anglers use 3 hooks at all times, this is the maximum number permitted in most competitions and as such gives the maximum number of baits in the water.
The rig consists of a main body with hook lengths attached, as the name suggests the snoods flap, and are not clipped down for casting, a swivel is tied at the top of the body and a weight clip at the bottom. The bottom hook(nearest the weight) can be tied above the weight or below, you will often find that certain venues fish better with all hooks up(above the weight) whilst others are better with 1 down (below the weight), this can even vary at different states of the tide and differnt times of year depending on species being targeted. The only way to find out whats best is to experiment and then remember your findings, watch out for signs like not catching on the bottom hook or always catching on the bottom hook!
The Clip Down Rig
As with the flapper rig the clip down can have from 1 - 3 hooks, however as the rig is designed to be cast long distance a 1 or 2 hook is most common. The idea is the baits are held in place with bait clips or cascade swivels to make the rig more aerodynamic and ultimatly increase the casting distance.
The most poular method for making a clip down rig is to have an impact shield or an impact lead at the bottom of the rig, then instead of a swivel on the lower snood a cascade swivel is used, so the bottom hook clips down to the impact and then the upper snood clips down to the cascade. The more traditional method is to attach bent bits of wire, known as bait clips to the main body of the rig using rubber tubing , thee are then positioned so the hooks clip into them, this method has the problem of occasionaly not coming unclipped, so you could be fishing with no chance of a fish getting hooked!
Spotting a fake Nike Free
Buying a Beginner Flute - Yamaha, Trevor James, Jupiter
Compulsory Acceptance of Paypal - NOT FOR US
Compulsory Acceptance of Paypal - BAD NEWS AND NOT FOR US.
It has now been announced (as we suspected some time ago it would be), that ALL sellers will from June 2008 have to accept Paypal as a payment option. While I am sure some buyers will see ths as a good thing, we already know that MOST sellers are totally against this ENFORCED practice. As a result, ourselves and many of our colleagues will cease trading through eBay as a DIRECT result of this move.
WHY ?
The answer to this easy easy to explain.
1. We have past experience of Paypal (none of it good we would add), and our final dealings with them over 2 years ago comprised of a 200.00 loss and a near 2500.00 fraud attempt. SAFE ! - Safe for who - the parties trying to scam we suspect.
2. From a business point of view, we can take ALL card payments direct through our own Merchant accountfrom any part of the world. This actually provides BETTER protection for buyers than an 'electronic payment service' which is EXACTLY what Paypal is. We also get far better rates using our own merchant account, and this saving can be directly passed on to customers.
3. The new 'regime' ACTUALLY gives Paypal the vito on whether a seller gets paid (under certain circumstances) ! HOW CAN THIS BE RIGHT ? What business can operate with a third party controlling the purse ?
4. WE WILL NOT BE PARTY TO A MOVE THAT TO US SEEMS TOTALLY UNFAIR AND SURELY MUST CONTRAVENE FAIR TRADING
Buying a First Time Electric Guitar??
Introduction: If you are thinking of buying your first electric guitar, either as a gift or for yourself, you may wish to read this. There are so many choices that it can be bewildering trying to decide wht to buy
Who am I to give you advice? I am a guitar player in my mid 50's and I've been playing for 40 years so I have played just about every popular make and type of guitar known to man. I play in a rock and blues band (Reflector.uk.com) and we gig regularly. We also record our own songs so I've played many styles of guitar on stage, in pubs and clubs and in recording studios.
Assumption: First I will assumeyou are lookingfor afull size electric guitar and not a childs one and that you are looking for good basic advice in deciding which guitar and accessories to choose. Secondly I will assume the guitar is for you so if you are buying one as a gift try to imagine what they would look for in a guitar
What Style of guitar? The main thing is that the guitar appeals to the person who is going to learn to play and thay it is an easy guitar to play and stay in tune.So the first question to ask yourself is which guitarist do you like and what kind of guitar do they play? It can be a great incentive to play a guitar similar to someone you admire! There are many styles of guitar on the market so i will focus on 5 most popular types and give you some advice on each
Stratocaster Invented by Leo Fender in 1954 and is the most instantly recognisable guitar in the world. Many top players favour Stratocaster style guitars with 3 single coil pickups and a tremolo or whammy bar. They are great to play but can be hard to tune as the tremolo floats so if one string does out of tune so do all the others! as they are all under tension together.Also known as a Strat or S-Type guitar. Think Eric Clapton, Jimi Hendrix, Buddy Holly, The Shadows - All styles catered for with a Stratocaster. Most popular guitar in the world.
Telecaster Also invented by Leo Fender in 1951 this is a fixed bridge guitar that is easier to tune and keep in tune. It has 2 single coil pickups and is a classic design ideal as a first guitar for any style of playing. Brice Sprinsteen, Status Quo, Sheryl Quo, Bob Dylan and thousands of others.
Les Paul This is a Gibson model and is a classic guitar style as played by the great player and innivator Les Paul. Favoured by rock players for its relatively heavy body and deeper sounding humbucking pickups. they have a fixed bridge which is easy to keep in tune.They don't hum like single coil pickups do under stage lights, or when recording. A classic design that is great for rock and blues. Favoured by Led Zeppelin, Thin Lizzy, Gary Moore Joe Bonamassa, Slash of Guns n Roses etc
SG This si another Gibson design which has good upper fret access and a lighter body but is otherwise like the Les Paul usually with two humbuckers.Also hasa fixed bridge.Used by ACDC, Wolfmother and early Eric Clapton in that great band Cream
335 or Dot style This is like a Les Paul but with semi acoustuc wings added to teh body which makes it very comfortable to play seated and also you can play without an amp which is good for a player learning.
Good starter guitar makes to watch out for are Squier (by Fender), Epiphone (by Gibson), Vintage, Encore, Stagg, Jim Deacon, Hodson, Aria, Spear.I have owned a Squier Standard Stratocaster (150)and a USA made Fender Stratocaster (800) and I can tell you that the Fender isNOT 5 times better than the Squier. Properly set up, a low cost guitar will play just about as well as an expensive guitar.
What else doI need? You need an amplifier or a pod to plug into your PC at home, a strap, a decent cable to connect to the amp, a plectrumand a guitar tuner. Also a chord book is helpful though lots of help is now available on the Internet of you search. Be aware that agood amp will make all the difference to a new player. A great starter amp needs only to be about 5watts if it is a valve amp or 15 Watts if it is solid state. Check out the Fender Vibro champ andthe Marshall MG Series both of which have digital effects on board
Get the guitar set up! Most guitars are very hard to play when you get them out the box, especially Stratocaster types as the tremolo needs to be set up.Sometimes the strings are clamped down to the body for transportation and it is essential that the guitar is easy for new players to play or they will give up too easily. Nickel wound steel strings of 9 to 42 guage are ideal for a learner. Itis best to fit a new set of strings to your new guitar as soon as you get it as the factory fitted ones will be cheap and nasty! Try Rotosound (my favourites - made in England), or Ernie Ball Slinky, D'Addarios etc
Finally! Buy a stand or a wall bracket so the guitar is always to hand. if you have to fish your guitar out from the box under the bed every time you will soon tire of doing that and it will end up in the attic or on eBay!
Above all Enjoy and have fun - Playing the guitar is one of the most rewarding and relaxing pastimes of all and you never know - maybe you, or the person you bought the guitar for, will be the next big guitar hero!
Finally, did youfind this guide useful? If so, please vote "Yes" below. Thank you kindly.
tiptopbikes rip off
I was conned into buying a 110cc quad bike by tiptopbikes who claimed they were selling 250cc quads. I contacted ebay a numberof times, opened a dispute etc and heard nothing. After a while I tried to find the status of my dispute and found that ebay had closed it without reason or notice. they haven't replied in any way whatsoever.
meanwhiletiptopbikes are still selling quad bikes by the dozen so it seems that as long as ebay get their money and the crooks get their money then everything is rosy.
MP3 Player Buying Guide by DigiDirect UK
We've been selling MP3 players on Ebay for over 2 years and in that time we've answered a lot of questions from our customers. So we've written a guide to answer the questions we get asked most often. We hope you find it useful and if you do please vote for it.
We have divided it into three sections to help you find the information you might be looking for:
Basic MP3 words, terms
motorcyle security chains, tested to destruction
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Old Tractors:David Brown,Caterpillar,John Deere,Fordson
This is one of many illustrated classic tractor guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it and if you would like to find out more about the classic Tractor art featured in this guide please click here.
This guide features several major tractor manufacturers in the years around WW2 and just after. The Second World War created an enormous impetus for tractor growth and Britain at this time relied heavily on the import of American tractors in addition to its home produced models, such as David Brown and Fordson.
David Brown - VAK I
The David Brown company of Huddersfield, Yorkshire, became the first company to build tractors incorporating the Ferguson system, launching in 1936 the Ferguson Model A, or Ferguson-Brown. The first version of this tractor was powered by a British Coventry Climax engine rated at 18-20bhp. It had three forward gears with one reverse and independent wheel brakes. Sales were uninspiring and the Ferguson/Brown partnership broke up in 1939, after Ferguson took one of their tractors to America to gain the interest of Henry Ford, and David Brown decided to manufacture a new tractor with the extra power which farmers appeared to demand. This model became the VAK I and was the first in a series of tractors that achieved outstanding commercial success. The tractor interests of the David Brown Corporation were taken over in 1972 to join Case as part of the Tenneco organisation.
Case - Dex
J.I. Case increased their production capacity by buying Rock Island Plow Co in 1937, the former makers of the Heider and Rock Island tractors. Then in 1939 they introduced the new streamlined D and R followed by S, LA and V ranges, with the identifying colour schemes of Flambeau Red. The three-plough capacity model D came with a number of options, such as row-crop (DC) and orchard (DO) and had a mechanical implement lift. Rated at 26-32hp with Case's own engine, it was joined by the smaller S and Continental-engined V in the early years of the war and by a new 4/5 plough model, the model LA, in 1941. The full range of Case D models were D, DC3 (tricycle), DC4 (wide axle), DEX (hybrid), DO, DV (vineyard) and DR (rice).
Caterpillar - D2
Few tractor names are better known than Caterpillar. From their beginnings in 1904 their speciality has always been track-laying or crawler tractors. The Caterpillar D2 was introduced specifically for agricultural used in 1938. It could handle a three/four furrow plough and was powered by a four-cylinder diesel engine of 26 drawbar and 32 belt horsepower. Speeds of up to 5mph were possible in top (fifth) gear. An interesting feature of the Caterpillar was that it used a horizontally-opposed, twin-cylinder, 10hp petrol engine as a starter motor. Known as a "donkey" starter, these were standard on all Cat diesels. In addition to overcoming the problem of unreliable starting they also kept wear on the engine to a minimum when starting cold.
John Deere - Model A
An early tractor of some note was the Waterloo Boy, which first appeared in 1912 as the progeny of the Waterloo Gasoline Engine Company of Iowa. It was known in Britain as the Overtime and offered 12-25hp with two forward gears plus one reverse. Following a take-over in 1918, the company adopted the name John Deere. The first "real" John Deere tractor was the Model D, which was produced between 1923 and 1952. The longest running of any tractor model it used the familiar John Deere two-cylinder horizontal engine, a feature of all the company's products right up until 1962. Lend Lease schemes during WWII led to the arrival in Britain of many John Deere tractors, they soon gained a reputation for robustness and reliability.
Marshall - Field Marshall
The Marshall M tractor was replaced in 1945 by the Marshall Series I, which featured a differential lock to give maximum traction in difficult conditions. The Series II was produced from 1947 to 1949 and was equipped with steering brakes, which were operated via levers beside the rear wings. The final versions were the Series III from 1949 and 1952 and the IIIA from 1952 to 1957. All used Marshall's well known single-cylinder two-stroke diesel engine. The massive 6 1/2 -inch bore piston travelled through a 9-inch stroke and its audible detonation led to the Marshall's nickname of the "Pom-Pom" tractor. Tracked versions of the Marshall were also marketed under the Fowler name.
Fordson - Model N
It was Henry Ford who made the real breakthrough with cheap mass-produced tractor power. Production of his Model F Fordson started in 1917 at Dearborn, Michigan and it became the most successful tractor ever built with the production totals reaching nearly 750,000 by the late 1920s, when the first major design changes were made. The Model N became the replacement for the Model F, production moving in 1928 to Cork, Ireland and shortly thereafter to Dagenham, Essex. At the start of WW2, tractor production in Britain was almost wholly Fordson, the N having a near monopoly since moving to Dagenham. Apart from imported tractors, the only possible competition were the Marshall M and the David Brown VAC-1, most of the others having ceased production.
Ferguson - TE
Harry Ferguson made his comeback in 1946 with the TE, or Gray Fergie as it was to become known. He had hoped that his tractor would be made by Ford at Dagenham, but it became obvious that this would not happen and he had to look elsewhere. A war surplus factory in Coventry owned by the Standard Motor Company was available, so Ferguson reached an agreement with Sir John Black of Standard to manufacture a British Ferguson similar to the Ford 9N. Lacking a suitable engine, Ferguson initially imported the Continental Z-120 engine for fitment into the TE, but this was replaced in 1947-8 by the Standard engine. The Gray Fergie became one of the world's best known tractors, selling worldwide and even going to the South Pole with Sir Edmund Hillary's Antarctic expedition.
International Harvester - Farmall H
The American company, International Havester, was formed through the merging of McCormick and Deering in 1902. Responsible for two of the most famous early tractor series, the Titan and the Mogul, IHC became of the world's leading tractor producers during these early years. They had exported 3,500 Titans and a smaller number of Moguls to Britain by 1920, backing them up with service and spares. International Harvester had hoped to start tractor production in Britain and had built a factory at Doncaster in Yorkshire, but on the outbreak of war it was taken over for war production. Various IHC models were exported to Britain during the war years with the H and the M being the most popular models, long-lasting and well suited to British needs.
Massey-Harris - Pacemaker
Thinking of selling a set of alloy wheels?
If you are thinking of selling a set of alloys, here are a few steps to ensure you get the most out of your listing.
1. Title. you want to encourage as many hits as possible for your listing. The way to maximise this is to put yourself in the position of a potential buyer. Try to think of all the relative keywords that a matching buyer might type into their search engine. A good example might be something like this:
Alloy wheels 17"irmschervauxhall vw
A poor example might be something like this
4 alloysmint condition
Both of these are based on real listings for similar items fromtwo different sellers. The end results were very different too. About 150 different!
2. Use photographs. Most mobile phones have a digital cameranowadays andyou can downloadphotos to your computerfrom a phone by bluetooth using a dongle in seconds. Use at least one clear photoof the whole set and additional ones to highlight any flaws or imperfections. If you are selling rims with tyres try and get a shot that shows how good (or bad) the treadsare. Paying 15p to display a small thumb alongside your title will attract more views and by definition more bids.
3. Be honest! If they've been kerbed or are marked say so. The more accurate you are with your descriptionthe less chance you'll have of having to deal with an unhappy buyer.
4. Offer postage. This is one of the most important factors in attracting bids. Your listing will appeal to a much wider audience if you can eliminate travel time
Don't rely on Paypal Seller Protection in UK
This guide is a warning to those in UK who ship items via Royal Mail Special Delivery.
My experiences show that if the transaction goes sour, Paypal will not honour its much vaunted Seller Protection policy, on the basis that for Seller Protection to be successful, there must be an Online Tracking facility showing the address the item wasshipped to. Royal Mail services DO NOT have full address tracking, allowing PayPal to deny any compensation. This is despite Paypal still showing Royal Mail as a recommended shipping method.
My situation was that I sold a phone to a Verified Paypal member, to his verified address. I sent it Special Delivery. Six weeks later Paypal informed me it was reversing the transaction as the buyer had used fraudulently obtained funds (but would not elaborate further). I lodged a compensation claim which PayPal refused as the online tracking did not show the buyers full address. A complication in my case was that the Royal Mail online tracking system failed, but RM sent me (and Paypal) irrefutable proof that the item had been delivered, showing the buyers signature of receipt.
After four weeks of prevarication, requests for copies etc, they came back with the original answer: to obtain Seller Protection, the online tracking must show delivery to the buyers verified Paypal address.
So, if you want the benefit of seller protection, use a courier service which shows full address tracking.
Bathroom Design and Installation
10 easy steps to the perfect bathroom
1. Determine what type of products you need according to the use and users of the bathroom.
2. Measure your space.
3. Produce a scale version floor plan.
4. Plot position of the products - make best use of space and include extra room around the products for moving around.
5. Plan out your plumbing, including water supply and waste requirements.
6. Plan for storage, lighting, heating and ventilation.
7. Get a quote include cost of products, installation and extras such as flooring and tiles.
8. Appoint an installer and purchase the products, but dont remove old fittings until the new ones have been delivered and checked for damage.
9. Add the finishing touches such as mirrors and other accessories to your new bathroom.
10. Enjoy it!
The following is a simple guide to planning your bathroom, which takes you through the steps to follow if you are working on an existing bathroom and are changing the fittings you already have. If you are building from scratch, creating an en-suite or changing the function of a room, or if you are at all unsure about what you are doing, then you should seek sound professional advice before you begin.
First of all, think about what products you want to include and get familiar with all the options available so that you find a combination thats right for you and your lifestyle; you will need to consider the space you have available and the needs of all the individuals who will use the bathroom. Include all the basics and add some luxurious extras if space and your budget allows, but dont forget about the impact this may have on future buyers and the fact that you may not be able to take it with you if you sell your home.
Your existing plumbing may limit your choice of fittings so you should check with an expert first, and if you are extending your existing bathroom or converting a room into a bathroom, then there are building regulations which may also affect you.
There are dozens and dozens of bathroom showrooms across the country, which have hundreds of products on display. Regardless of where you get your inspiration and ideas from you should always take the time to look at the fittings in the flesh so that you can check the quality of the product and get a far better picture of what it looks like and how big it is.
Be prepared for some mess while your new bathroom is fitted. A straight refit where new products replace the old should only take 2 to 3 days to complete, but a more complicated installation, where new systems are introduced and extensive work needs to be done, can take longer. If this fills you with dread and you cannot get by without a fully working bathroom you might want to make arrangements with family or neighbours to use their bathroom, or even book into a guesthouse or hotel for the duration.
Building Regulations
Bathrooms and WCs require external ventilation
A window which opens will suffice
A WC cloakroom or bathrooms containing a WC must not open directly off a kitchen, living or dining room
A bathroom can lead directly onto a bedroom provided it is not the only bathroom in the property
Consider what you want from this bathroom, who will use it and how often is it the main family bathroom, an en-suite to the master bedroom, a shower room for guests? If space is a real issue, are you prepared to sacrifice or compromise on one element of the bathroom in order to facilitate another? All of this can help you decide on the type and size of products you need and focus your attention and perhaps your budget on the areas which are most important.
If it is for all the family to use, you will probably want to make it as versatile and workable as possible, perhaps installing a shower over the bath and fitting 2 sinks which can help to speed things up in the morning. By including plenty of storage for all the bottles of shampoo, shower gel and bubble bath which collect in there you can keep the clutter to a minimum but keep everything you need to hand. If it is an en-suite, then perhaps a hydro-massage shower cabin or spa bath is what you are looking for. Guest bathrooms may just require a straightforward shower enclosure with the toilet and sink and a downstairs cloakroom may need the tiniest sink you can find to fit in that small but essential space.
Think about the type of products are you hoping to install and whether they will require any additional plumbing or electrics to operate. For example, if you are installing a new shower, think about where the inlet pipes need to be and whether you need a separate water tank to feed it. A shower can be installed over a bath, but more and more people are choosing to sacrifice the bath and use the space for a separate larger shower enclosure with a powerful shower, hydro-massage body jets and steam cabin instead. Plan it in at this early stage and you can avoid spoiling work you have already completed, particularly if there is a lot of building work and tiling to do.
Planning
The first and most important step is to measure the space you have without accurate measurements your plan will be meaningless. Dont mix metric and imperial measurements and measure it twice just to be sure it will be costly, waste valuable time and be very frustrating if the products you buy dont fit when you come to install them.
Produce a scale version floor plan or layout of the room including the position and dimensions of doors, windows and walls. Dont forget to include the position of the soil stack and where your soil pipe runs, but speak to an expert if you are thinking of moving the toilet, because it is probably the most awkward bit to change. Water pipes to sinks, bidets and baths and waste outlets are less complicated to move but speak to a professional if you are unsure.
Plan out your storage requirements make use of alcoves or dead space in your bathroom and take advantage of the many types of vanity unit and washstands available to keep all your bathroom bits and pieces to hand. Vanity units will also hide away ugly plumbing pipes and give the bathroom a well designed and co-ordinated look, particularly if you team them with wall cabinets, shelving or other storage racks.
Lighting can also play a big part in setting the mood or providing a bright environment. You may want to replace your main central ceiling light with several spotlights, install a shaver socket or fit cabinets with lighting built-in. Obviously electrics in the bathroom are a safety concern, so speak to an expert before you begin any work on this.
Towel warmers will add a touch of warmth and luxury to your bathroom but must be planned in, whether they are electric or connected to your water system.
You will need adequate ventilation in your bathroom, particularly if it has no window, to help prevent mildew and damp from taking hold. Fit an extractor fan to the outside wall if you can, or install a heater to dry out the room.
Bathroom personal hygiene can be greatly improved by including a bidet in your bathroom design. Washing is more effective and much more soothing than toilet paper, which can be an irritant to many people. A bidet requires hot and cold water feed and a waste outlet in the same way as your sink or bath.
Flooring
The type of flooring you opt for is entirely down to personal choice, although there are advantages and disadvantages to everything. Tiles are perfect as floor and wall coverings since they are hardwearing, scratch-resistant, waterproof and easy to clean. Using ceramic or glass tiles allows you to be inventive with pattern and design because they come in all sorts of shapes, colours and sizes. However, not all tiles are suitable for both floor and wall, so check this before you buy, and remember that tiles can be very slippery when wet and are cold underfoot. Carpet is not fitted in bathrooms as it is unhygienic, so rubber or vinyl flooring is becoming a very popular alternative; it is warm and quiet underfoot, incredibly durable and available in many colours and textures but may need specialist glue or installation. You may be considering under-floor heating too, but a specialist can advise you further on your options here.
If you are installing heavy products such as a cast iron bath then you must ensure that your floor is strong enough to bear the weight. You may need to re-enforce the joists, but if this is not possible, then perhaps opting for a lighter-weight acrylic bath freestanding version is the answer.
Copyright Home Axess UK Limited 2006
Accucut Zaz
I have the little accucut Zaz which is strong, light, neat and portable however I have found that generally the quickutz dies work perfectlywith the Zaz yet I often experience difficulty when using accucuts own dies and will now only purchase quickutz dies!
*I have now tried bosskut dies and find thesealso work well in the Zaz.
GOWINGS STORE, United Kingdom
Macro lenses Tamron Nikon Other MF or AF
rule 1; ALL MACRO LENSES ARE GOOD
there are no bad true (=NOT the xx-yyy zoom lenses with macro function!!)macro lenses, whether nikon/sigma/... with the exception of some far away russian brands, all are made to a high degree of accuracy
rule 2; USE MAINLY MANUAL FOCUS
in my 16 years of photographic experience with all kinds of manual and auto focus camera's (film and digital) , i have used MF with99% of my macro pics (no use buying an expensive AF lens); handheld holding your camera will bring out of focus the object you are trying to shoot by just breathing hard (chest movement), you focus the camera+lens by doing a rough focus on the lens and then moving your body ever so slightly back and forward the object
---
Friday, July 23, 2010
Fake Links of London Charms
Genunie Links of London charms are quite heavy as they are solid
silver, the ones I have been sent are light and tinny sounding. Also, compare your charm to the picture from the seller. In my case, I ordered the bikini and the mantaray charms. The pictures from the seller show different markings on the charms, compared to the ones that I have received - there were three spots on my bikini charm that hadn't even been coloured in! You are more than likely not going to know whether the charm is real of fake, until you receive it. With this in mind, I would recommend you purchase Links of London charms with caution.I hope this helps.
Buying second hand classic Ping Irons
If you find my guide usefull then please click the yes button below.
Thisguide is for persons buying or selling classic Ping brand golf clubs on eBay,including Eye2, Eye2 +no+, Eye2+, Zing, Zing2 and ISI models.Theserulesdevelopedfrompurchasing thousands of dollarsof Ping irons, woods and putters on eBay for myself and others; I have never sold a Ping on eBay. I have no vested interest in the informationwritten here. I have been playinggolf for 25 years and have a low single digit handicap. I have owned at least one set of each type and alloy of Ping irons. The opinions are my own.
Rule 1 - Request the serial number - If they won't tell you the serial number, don't buy the club;
All Ping clubs have a serial number. The serial number will tell you when it was made, what the original "dot" color was, what the original shaft was and if there was anything customabout the club, like shaft type, length or a special grind on the sole of the irons. Before you spend all that money, go to the Ping website or call Ping and check it out. If what's advertised doesn't match up with what Ping says -- don't buy it.
Rule 2 - Don't buy clubs that are notthe original dot color;
The dot color on Ping irons is the lie angle. Lie angle is the angle between the shaft and the ground when the club is grounded. Generally speaking, because the length of the clubs is constant, a shorter person needs a smaller angle (or flatter)than a taller player (more upright).Having the right dotfor you will improve your game Go to the Ping website, find out what dot you need via a "static fitting" and try to buy that color.Mostadult males fall in theBlue-Black-Red range.
And therein lies the problem: unscrupulous sellers will paint over the true color of a less popular dot and advertise it as a color its not. Some will even go to the trouble of bending the hosel of the club itself with widely varying results. If bent too far or too often, the club may shatter.Ping irons are cast (not forged)and even if bent, will eventually return to their original cast position; it could be next week or next year but it will happen.Remember Rule 1 and double check whatyou're buying.
Rule 3 - Avoid re-shafted clubs;
Ping irons were usually sold with proprietary steel shafts. Eye2 had Microtaper or ZZ Lite shafts. Late Eye2+ models had KTM or JZ shafts. Zings originally had KTM shafts but these were changed to JZ for most production. Zing2 had JZ shafts. ISI had JZ or ZZ65 shafts. A very limited number of each model were sold with various proprietary graphite shafts. Why avoid re-shafts? Few, if any Ping heads had parallel hosels, most were .355 tapered. Club repair specialistssometimes drill out the tapered hosels to accept parallel tipped shafts, usually graphite. Once this modification has been made, you can't go back. Very rarely is a bench vise, an hand drill and an old Craftsman bit as goodas a factory CNC-machine.
Rule 4 - A complete set has matching serial numbers and includes the sand and lob wedge;
Because of a generally accepted misunderstanding about the nature of square grooves (see Rule 6), Ping Eye2 lob and sand wedges (including, undeservedly,the Eye2+ models) have acquired a value all out of proportion with their actual worth and are frequently sold separately. If you are buying a set as an investment, then the set is complete only with the matching lob and sand wedge. This says the seller was knowledgeable enough and scrupulous enough to keep the set together rather than try and cash in on selling the clubs separately. Even if it's just for you, without thought to future investment value, try to buy a matching set. Simply put, the more complete the set is, the more it's worth.
Rule 5 - Retumbling is O.K. - regrooving is not;
Retumbling is a cosmetic process whereby the clubhead is placed in an agitator containing some kind of acrylic media and subjected to several hours of light cleansing. This is done with new heads before they are assembled and can be done with older heads to restore them to a like-new finish byremoving tarnish,oxidation and even small abrasions. This process is very effective in renewing Ping clubs including those made of Beryllium Copper (BeCu) and Beryllium Nickel (BeNi)as well as the more common stainless steel. Ping will retumble stainless heads (but not other metals). A number of companies who advertise on eBaydo a great job andhandleBeryllium models as well.Retumbling is the only way to get that like-new look. Avoid polished Pings; polishing removes substantial metal.
Regrooving is a process whereby the grooves in the club face are recut using some type of machine tool. Pings are CNC grooved at the factory. Ping does not regroove its own clubs.Regrooving makes the clubs non-conforming under USGA rules. Avoid regrooved clubs like the plague.
Rule 6 - All Ping clubs made from 1984 on have square grooves;
Square grooves refers to the cross section of the grooves themselves which have sides that taper slightly from top to bottom but in general have a box or u-shaped appearance under high magnification. All Pings (except for the very first Eye2s that don't have a patent number)from 1984to the present have this type of groove shape as do most, if not all other modern manufacturers' clubs today. Having square grooves is not a selling point.
Ping manufactured its square-groove Eye2 model for a few years before the USGA informed them that the grooves on the clubs were non-conforming and would be banned from competition.Ping filed suit to avoid such a ruling. At issue was not the shape of the grooves but the manner in which the distance between the sides of the grooves was measured.The controversy was over ten-thousandths of an inch. The case dragged on for many years, but eventually, as a settlement, original Eye2s were ruled conforming. Ping made new Eye2+s with groove walls slightly farther (less than a human hair width) apart and the USGAaffirmed its ability to determine thecomformityof new club designs to the Rules of Golf for such things as coefficient of restitution (CoR values) and maximum head volume.
The originalEye2irons have the original groove pattern as do a very raretransitional model which have the narrow sole and head design of the Eye2+ but do not have the + cast on the clubhead. This is the so-called "+ no +" Eye2 manufactured for only a few months in 1990and offered only in stainless steel. Eye2+ have a new pattern.Bluntly, only a very good golfer can tell the difference between an originalEye2 groove and an Eye2+ groove by hitting them. My personal belief and experience is that any perceived difference is between the golfer's ears.
Rule 7 - Berylliumis cool;
Beryllium is used to make aerospace parts and atomic weapons. In a liquid form, it is one of the most toxic substances known to man. And it makes really cool-looking golf clubs whenalloyed with copper or nickel.I don't know the exact figures, but my guess is that Ping made one in every ten sets out of BeCu beginning with the Eye2 model. Ping also made a very small percentage of BeNi sets in the ISI model. Ping stopped making Beryllium clubs in the late 1990's. Some people claima perceived softness at impact about the BeCu models. Again, it'smy belief that such difference is between the golfer's ears. BeCu turns a dark copper color (like an old penny) as it ages. BeNi does not darken as much. You can clean these clubs by letting them soak overnight in Diet Coke.Beryllium alloy clubs command a premium of approximately 50% over their stainless steel brethern.If you want something that looks cool and is different, get a set of Berylliums.
Rule 8 - A word on Putters;
The overwhelming majority of old, non-stainless steel Ping putters are made of a Manganese Bronze alloy. They are not Beryllium Copper. Ping did make a few BeCu and BeNi putters but far fewer that you see on eBay. Ask your seller if he or she knows if its BeCu or Manganese Bronze. Don't pay forpremium metal that isn't. The only way to know for sure is to retumble the head and check the raw metal color. Assume that the putter is not really BeCu.
Rule 9 - Know why you're buying;
Even if you're buying just because you always wanted a set of Pings for yourself, try to get a set with all matching numbers. Don't buy BeCu for any other reason than you like the look. I think the Zing2's are the best club for beginners and high handicappers and the Eye2+s are the best for low handicappers.All of these clubs are just as good as anything you can buy new today.
If you're buying as an investment or to mount in a shadowbox in your trophy room (don't laugh, I was contracted to buy several sets for just this purpose), nothing but one of the rare sets, like the "+ no +" or original BeCu Eye2 setscomplete with all the clubs will do.
When you buy, always try to consider a set price as a per club transaction. For instance, if you pay200 for eight clubs (3-W), that's25 per club; then245 for ten clubs (2-S) is exactly the same value. By doing this, you'll very quickly be able to separate the good values from poor ones. Try to buy the most complete set you can afford. Remember, the more complete the set is, the more it is worth.
Rule 10 - Ask questions;
Ask questions. If they don't answer, don't buy the clubs. If they don't know, be suspicious. If they lie,and some do, send negative feedback. eBay only works as well as the feedback process. Use it.
Securing a Wireless Network
Difference between sprung edge and platform top divans
We often get asked what is the difference between a sprung edge base and a platform top base. Well there are actually three main types of divan base including a 'firm edge' base, but these aren't as common as the other two:
Platform Top Divan Base
The base has a hard top. This type of base is the cheapest, and will give a firmer feel than the other types of divan base.
Sprung Edge Divan Base
This type of base has a layer of springs on top of the base that go right to the edge giving the base a softer, more sumptuous feel.
Firm Edge Divan Base
This type of base is more expensive to produce than the other two types, so some manufacturers will charge more for this option. This base gives a similar feel to the sprung edge base whilst providing extra support around the edge of the mattress. This type of base is ideal for people who are prone to rolling out of bed.
PLEASE LET US KNOW IF YOU FIND THIS GUIDE HELPFUL OR NOT
Which type of double buggy do I need?
I originally wrote this out a while ago for a baby-related board I post on, so the
names of the buggies I have mentioned are perhaps not the latest, but it should give
you something to work from. I have bought, sold and used a few doubles so I hope this
gives you something to go on!
Tandems like the Graco are harder to manoeuvre due to their length.. that and the fact
the heavier child is over the front wheels, can make them hard work, especially if you
arent tall yourself..and the older your older child the harder it gets. If you have a
smaller age gap, if you mostly go over level ground then they are good.. and some of
the Graco tandems take a car seat on the back seat too (but NOT all, ask if you're
thinking of using it like this!)
The tandem three wheelers with a swivel front wheel do get round the manoeuvrability
issue, BUT are just as hard work to get the front lifted up to go up a kerb.
Side by side doubles are great but I have found the Maclarens other 4 wheeler versions,
you don't have so much leverage to lift front wheels up a kerb as you do with the three
wheelers.
The adaptability of Phil
22k Solid Gold Stamped! Really?!
Here goes!
This article is only intended for ebayers going for the "stamped" jewelry and getting it!
I produce jewels in India, and for certain I know that there is NOTHING like 22k jewelry on ebaY. How can you afford the goddamn making charges which leave so little profit margin? This happened only yesterday that a couple came to us to remould old gold jewelry claiming it to be 23k!! That's close to 95.83% of gold content! And it was bought from a close relative... Okay, so we melt this thing and a computerised report by the Bureau of Indian Standards says that purity is a little less! Only 76.6% Gold!
When buying gold, it is very easy to get f****d before u get kissed! To take a precaution, this is what you've got to do....
1. Ask if the jewelry has been certified by a standardising dept. of the country of origin.
2. Make a provision to the seller that if the computerised testing turns out to be dubious, the jewelry will be returned.
3. After the above, be prepared to pay a price much higher than that on Gold Bullion. Ebayers only want stuff at raw material's price! The seller is going to make you shell out for ebay charges, VAT, paypal charges, and profit all from that price. Only a smuggler would get gold at a price lesser than that on Gold Bullion. And he too, would be smart enough to sell off the gold at market price, not getting into the trouble of making jewelry out of it!
Why this scam?
I know for sure that the customs people ask for complete paperwork (Gold Valuation Report by a govt. authorised valuer, Gold Purchase Certificate from your bank, etc.) But that's only once... They let go once you become routine, thus this scam.... There are still many who send jewelry to America of a lower purity, claiming it to be of a higher purity(But that's 20k/18k instead of 22k). And its gonna take a long time to know how much of this manipulated gold has made rounds in America.
These are the fake stamps which need to be checked:
1. 22c- The jewelry is 18k. Take my word for that!
2. 23c- Again, 18k.
3. 22k- Considerable, but still not a proof.
4. 22kGP- GP is going to be gold plated. Nothing else.
5. 24k- Heehee. Pure LOL if you've not purchased it! Durable jewelry cannot be made in 24k!
6. 916 You can still stamp 916 on an 18k/750 jewelry.
How to recognise?
22k will be reddish yellow and the gold cannot be mirror polished like 18k or 14k (the latter ones being hard enough to sustain a heavy polish) But despite this, it will have an unbeatable brilliance.
Diamonds cannot be set in 22k Jewelry prongs. It's probably something else....
There are many such characteristics which need to be considered before purchasing gold on ebaY. But, I hope this much is helpful enough!
tiffany jewellery
My Local Top Class Fishing Site.(Take A Look.)
The main lake at Pendle View is fed by streams which come down from the
nearby hills and has depths which range from a few feet just off the bank
to around
14 feet in the middle of the lake. There is a channel which runs down the
centre of the lake from the two inlets at the top end of the fishery to
the overflow weir.
Now the lake has been taken over we are concentrating on improving the fishing and the experience by doing the following:
- Re Pegging
- Creating Habitat including lilly padsOur fly lake
THE FLY LAKE (AROUND ONE ACRE)
Very well established in 2008, at one point this lake was little
more than a silt trap for the main lake with a small centre island. It
was de silted and deepened to a depth of around 6 foot in 2001 and
again in 2004. The lake itself is very popular and can easily
accommodate around 18 anglers at any one time. It is stocked with
Brownies, Blueys, and Rainbows up to a weight of 20lbs. Terrestrials
blow off the surrounding farmland and the two streams feeding the lake
bring in natural food.
The fly lake is an ideal venue for those that just want a couple of
hours fishing or a full days uninterrupted sport. The lake continues to
yield excellent returns with most anglers reporting a bag of seven or
more fish per person per session. Anglers are asked to record their
catch and method after each session so that stocks can be replenished
and so that other anglers can see what methods/tactics are working etc.
Like all the lakes at Pendle View, catch returns are emailed out in
fishing reports so that anglers can see what methods are working.
Natural flies present include damsels, sedges, buzzer and bloodworm.
Anglers fishing this lake are asked to wear sunglasses and head gear in
the interests of safety. Whilst the water is open to youngsters anglers
aged 15 or under should be supervised by an adult.
This lake is also reccomended for team building or school days, please contact us for details..
Our Match lake
THE MATCH LAKE (APPROXIMATELY 2 ACRES)
The Match lake was built during the Summer of 2003. Its main aim was
to take the pressure of the very popular Main lake. The two acre lake
is square with a bund running along the middle and has 32 pegs. The
lake was originally two very large stock ponds and the lake itself is
raised and filled by rainwater alone, The Match lake is found at the
top of the site and is very easily accessed. When the lake was built it
was heavily stocked with Roach, Perch, Carp and Tench.
During the Summer of 2006 there were some excellent catch returns
recorded. Bags of 100lb were caught during the summer. This year the
lake has been netted and a restocking program has been started, already
bags in excess of 90lb have been recorded and verified... What are you
waiting for, call us today!
We now allow anglers to fish overnight on the Doughnut Lake, as long
as there are no angling matches booked for the following day.
Pendle View Fisheries Has Been Established As A Fishery For At Least 20 Years And Was Purchased By Its Third And Present Owners In October2001.Since That Time The Current Owners Have Successfully Transformed The Business By Introducing A Whole Host Of New Fish, re Branding And Marketing The Venue And Making It One Of The NORTH WESTS Premier Fishing Venue.Over The Years Pendle View Fisheries Has Become A Firm Favourite And Anglers Come Back To Its Banks Time After Time Again.Indeed In A Article Published In September 12th In The Carp Magazine ,Pendle View Fisheries Has Been Voted The 14th BEST Carp Water In The U.K.Some Achievment As There Are Over ONE THOUSAND Carp Waters In The U.K.As Well As Being A Firm Favourite For The Carp Angler It Is Very Popular With Pleasure And Fly Anglers.Whether You Looking For A Days Fishing On One Of The Two Carp Lakes, A Full Weeks Fishing In Your Bivvie, A Days Fishing, Or A Two Week Stay In One Of The Holiday Lodges-Pendle View Is The Ideal Venue For You.The Venue Caters For Both The Experienced Or Novice Angler. For Those Customers Wishing To Learn The Sport They Also Offer Easy To Afford Lessons Along With Tackle Hire.The Owners Of The Site Are Often Complemented For There On Site Facilities Which Include:Three Excellent Fishing Lakes.New Modern Office Block, Open 364 Days A Year(Except Xmas Day).(7.00am Till 9.00pm BST 7.00am Till 7.00pm Winter.).Bait And Tackle Shop.Fishing Lessons.Small Cafe.New Ladies And Gents Loos With Disabled Facilities.Holiday Lodges.Excellent Parking Facilities.Good Access To All The Areas Of The Venue.Wooden Step And Handrail Around The Site.Decked Observation Over The Lakes.Manager Dwelling For 24 Hours Security.24 Hour Verification For Fish.
BLACKBERRY BOLD BEWARE OF PRE ORDER SCAM
Currently i am noticing a growing trend of ebay members taking pre order still listings and not writting the listing is for a pre order
Take for example the new blackberry bold
with a release date of a few weeks from now yet a particular ebayer is selling them from the us and not one of his 10 bidder have left him a good feedback
Now i know said user is a powerseller but i still have worries when you consider that not 1 of the bidders has recieved this phone from him
I have checked their listing and found not one word on shipping time frames less than 21 days and they have been selling this phone for like a good few days
I have not seen one person leave good feedback yet and they have been selling now for a few days i am a bit concerned that as phones like this come out
What you will get is people trying to take pre orders from ebay buyers and not advising that your item is actually going to be done in a pre order.
I will try to contact the seller for images and advise on here. but i would say for now if your considering buy to think twice as there is nothing to show this seller actually has this phone as they didnt even use an actual image of the phone it's a stock photo.
Don't forget to vote cheers
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Update 09-08-2008
Turns out i am right about people selling the phones with pre order motives and not telling the buyers its pre order
Some are saying its a customs declaration issue others are saying its at a friends but one thing is certain the Black berry bold is not out in Uk nor is it out in USA some people tend to sell items before they are released officially.
If they do always ask for photo (personalised) its too easy to get an image of anything these days online
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another note - the blackerry servers are going to be down until the blackberry is actually released somewhere in the world this means even if you have it right now you will only be able to use the phone service nothing more.
Ebay is a great way to pre sell items before you actually get authorisation to sell the item from the manufacturer but its also a great place to fall victim to fraud if you are not careful obviously many people selling these are genuine but there is a small minority of sellers trying to abuse the ebay system
I spoke to a seller that was trying to sell this phone in Uk when i asked him to collect he said he didnt have the phone on him and he was waiting for a friend to bring it for him so i warn all buyers be careful and know that until any seller selling this phone is getting feedback from people that have bought it before hand i would ask you to not part with your money yet till you see some feedback from people that have bought
One seller currently offering over 40 phones has sold around 100 units of these and not one person has given him any feedback
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Final shocking update-
A little bit of sad news having already seen this ebayer listingblackberry bolds from 1st august and not stating that it is a pre order selling them for top dollar(the kind of money you get for items that are not available) I sent him an email asking about if he had stock and here is what i got as a response PS i did not buy any from him so this response got me worried
This is a list of the emails i have got from them so you decide whats going on
This first mail was received on the 7th august days after this user had sold around 80 of these units all on ebay
These should start shipping next week, we ask all buyers to allow up to twenty days for delivery, even though they should start shipping next week. We ordered 60 Units from Blackberry, and we should of have them by today, but because they stock in customs they will be only released next week, as soon as they do, we will be sending them out! They are Original in the box with all accessories, Unlocked and Unbranded. thanx, N_G_P
Now this wouldnt shock you unless you saw this second email i received 6 days later surely by now it should have cleared customs after the user had by now taken more than 140 orders not one item shipped
OK, we ordered 90 Units from Blackberry, now they stock in customs, we should of had them by now, but customs still testing to see if everything is safe and other crap that they do, as soon as they clear I will send it to you!